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Foies Gras du Périgord

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The marchés au gras, a Périgord tradition

The marchés au gras, a Périgord tradition


From November to March, in Dordogne, it is the marchés au gras period. We can find all goose and duck products. The marché au gras in Thiviers is particularly renowned.

Goose and duck

On Saturday morning, in Thiviers, the tables are set to host producers of gras from throughout the Dordogne. The traditional market in Thiviers is outdoors, and seasonal, explains the organizer, Ginette Soulier: "before, the fattening only happened during the winter period." The market seasonality has been preserved
In Thiviers, 14 regional producers sell duck, as well as goose. Only two producers are goose fatteners, a rare specialty today. On this market, a fan of duck and goose can find all the products, cut, semi-preserved or canned: foie gras, half-cooked, fried, rillettes, duck breast stuffed with foie gras, gizzards, etc.

The marché au gras, a witness to the evolving tastes

Ginette Soulier remembers seeing the market evolve: "I am 66 years old, I have always known it. At the time, they sold whole geese and only goose because duck couldn’t be fattened". For Ginette Soulier, where the market has changed the most: "It's in the cooking". Before, when a family bought a whole goose, they used to jar the foie gras, the confit and the rillettes: "today, fat is not consumed at all, we say that rillettes are too fatty, and we do not know what to do with the carcass". Meanwhile, other products have emerged, more suited to today’s taste. Cooks have developed the breast, or the gizzards: "the breast is very important, and the restaurateur who released the gizzard salad was a great help".

Teach young people to cook

Ginette Soulier is emotional, when speaking about the marché au gras in Thiviers: "this is my childhood". She hopes that many other children will say the same. For that, for 10 years, events have been created: "the marché au gras was somewhat neglected by young people. To make it dynamic, we launched cooking classes". 5 times a year, one can thus learn to de-vein foie gras, make a terrine, or cook gizzards.
The marché au gras in Thiviers carries the tradition. It is also located opposite the foie gras museum. But it also knows how to evolve with the times .